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Franki X Rome Pt. 1: le panetterie e il caffè

Byfrancescadzani@gmail.com

Once you’re in a new place more than once, you really tune in to the societal flow. The sounds are different. The way you pay for food is different. People greet you differently. The napkins and water bottles are different (the lid actually stays attached to the opening). Cafe culture is different. It’s the nuances of daily living that are just different. It’s like being on another planet entirely.

I went on a press trip to Rome courtesy of Marriott International, and while there, working for Delish, I also had some free time to explore the city for hidden gems. I spent many hours researching and curating my own list based on the statements of Italian food experts. Was everything I had the most incredible thing ever ever ever? No, not always. In fact, some were met with disappointment. But what I did appreciate was the expectation that “said thing” probably wouldn’t get much better than it was. It’s all subjective, too, so you have to form your own opinion!

Standard Italian cafeteria culture- as I see it- means standing at the counter, making small talk or not, sipping your espresso, and dropping a few euro as you head out the door. Oftentimes, the cafe will double as an aperativo bar where you can sip your bitters and snack on complimentary chips, olives, and nuts. My mission on this trip was to dive deep into the list of cafeteria and pasticcerias across the Roman diameter.

For when you go

Fiocco Di Neve Cafe

eat this: affogato with fiore di latte gelato and zabaglione
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I’ll begin by mentioning that I try to avoid caffeine. But, over 4 days of drinking more coffee than I do in a week- most of which were caffeinated- I had no kooky jitters. The first thing I had in Rome post-landing at 8am on no sleep (2am NY time) was an affogato with fiore di latte gelato and zabaglione. My goodness, it was delicious. The zabaglione was chilly and dense, and the marsala (assuming it was the booze used) really popped. Tiny place, a couple of mini tables, and a nice refuel stop.

Chiostro Del Bramante

drink this: decaf espresso???
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I saw this one on tiktok and thought it was worth a trek because it’s in a muesum that oversees exhibits of art through the ages. Although I wasn’t able to enjoy my latte with the view. Instead, I hung out under a ceiling of pots and pans. Aluminum or stainless steel… who knows. Decaf coffee— never thought I’d see the day. Someone once said to me, “Italians don’t drink decaf.” Oh, yeah? Pretty sure I misunderstood the barista’s pronunciation for decaf, noticing her frustration piercing through our short exchange, I wanted to leave, but I also really wanted un cafe. So I stayed for a little recharge. There were so many options. I’m just surprised at how much coffee menus have expanded here. Maybe it’s always been this way, and I’m paying closer attention. If you know Italia, you know they are stuck in tradition.

Boccione

eat this: torta di ricotta & torta di mandorle
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Teeny corner pastry shop in the Jewish ghetto. Apparently, the oldest too. With crostatas posted on glass shelves for pastry window shoppers. I was met by a crotchety petit donna. I wanted everything with a side of explanation, but I hesitated. I sort of stumbled over my Italian too, she made me a little nervous! I knew the crostatas were it, so I took away the torta di ricotta & torta di mandorle (almond). I took a bite of each and packed them for home home. So we’ll see how they’ve kept up! The torta di ricotta is like a fluffy cheese cake sandwiched between tender cake and sitting atop a berry compote. Little charring on top made it more interesting, I think. The torta di mandorle has a layer of sponge cake met with albicoca or apricot ( like al-be-cocah and one of my favorite Italian words), and a piped marzipan top.

Antino Forno Rosioli

eat this: crostata di ricotta e ciocolotto
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While I write this, I’m debating digging the crostata di ricotta e ciocolotto out from the overhead compartment on my flight. Do I save it for Dillon to try…?

Rosioli came up often in my research as one of the brands to try. They have Antico Forno Rosocli, Rosocli Caffe Pasticceria, and Rosocli Salumeria all in close proximity. You could actually dedicate a day to Roscioli. Antico Forno Rosocli was backed up into the alleyway, and like I always say, “a good bakery starts with a line.” Maybe slightly a tourist trap, but otherwise ignored by me. The abbodanza of everything was perfection. The breads. The bagged pasta. The pastries. The pizza. The prepared foods. All of it! I couldn’t figure out what I wanted, so I took a chance on the crostata di ricotta e ciocolotto, which came in mini rounds and bar form, cut to order for 2 or more people. It was exceptionally delicious, and definitely a Roman pastry worth investing your tastebuds in.

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